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12-25-2008, 09:17 AM
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Sarees of North India
• Banarasi Sarees • Bandhani Sarees • Chikan Sarees • Kota Sarees • Tanchois Sarees • Tissue Sarees Banarasi Sarees Banarasi sarees are world famous for their royal look and rich feel. This saree is a combination of style, beautiful craftwork and good quality. 'Banarasi Saree' is considered to be the Indian 'SUN' in the world of fashion and has been a subject of great inspiration and appreciation world-wide. It was in the Mughal era Baranasi saree came into popularity and got fashion currency. Today, this Indian fashion sari has witnessed a continuous growth in demand in both Indian and International markets.  Fabric There are mainly four varieties of Benarasi saree available today. They are Pure silk (katan) Organza (kora) with zari and silk Georgette Shattir Design The Banarasi silk saree is popular for its rich and intricate weave and zari work. Banarasi Sarees have designs with original gold and silver thread. Some of the designs on the body of a banaresi sarees are as follows: Benarasi sarees often depict scenes of villages, fairs, flowers, dancing monkeys and clouds. Traditional designs remain the base appeal for Benarasi sarees. There are also temple and mosque designs. They come up in all shades. Most brocades usually have designs that exhibit Mughal patterns such as intricate intertwining floral and foliate motifs, kalga and bel. A distinct feature found along the inner, and sometimes outer, edge of borders in this saree is a narrow fringe like pattern that often looks like a string of upright leaves called jhallr. The pallus of these sarees have elaborate pure gold and silver designs densely woven with gold and multicolor thread which lend the saree its elegance. Its major attraction lies in colorful dying of silk fabric. The brocade that is used in producing these sarees are Amru silk brocades which are world famous. Jamvar, Navrangi (nine colors), Jamdani etc. are other brocade types from the range of Banarasi sarees. Owing to its beautiful designs and colors, a banarasi silk sari always has come to occupy a special place among buyers, throughout the world. The people with rich taste love the beauty and intricate design of the Banarasi sarees as these are very elegant and gorgeous. Bandhani Sarees Bandhani and bandhej sarees are typical of the states of Rajasthan and Gujarat. Bandhani sarees created by dyeing the cloth in such a manner that the tied 'spots' produce elaborate patterns over the fabric. Bandhani sarees have won lot of appreciation in the fashion market.  Fabric Simple bandhani sarees are basically in cottons and are ideal for the Indian summers. There are also silk or chiffon bandhani sarees with sequins or zari work. The Process Bandhani is a handwork, which involves tying and dying of cloth. To create the Bandhani designs, the Bandhej process involves tightly tying a string or "dori" around certain areas of the fabric and then dipping it in to a dye. After a short while, the fabric is taken out of the dye and the string is removed. On opening the fabric, you will see that the areas covered by the string have retained their original color while the rest of the fabric has been dyed. Bandhani work, after the processing is over, results into a variety of symbols including, dots, squares, waves and strips. The tying of cloth with thread and then dying it is the simplest and perhaps the oldest form of creating patterns on a plain piece of cloth. Colours and Design The dominant colors in Bandhani sarees are bright like yellow, red, green and pink. Maroon is also popular. But with changing times, as Bandhani has become a part of fashion, various pastel colors and shades are being used. Single colour sarees with white spots are also common. There are bandhani sarees with contrast colours, with zori borders. The various tye and dye designs on bandhani sarees are Bandhej, Lehriya, Batik, Mothra, Ekdali, Shikari, Cheent. Chikan Sarees The Chikan Saree of Lucknow is perhaps one of the most popular embroidered saree in India. It has a certain grace and elegance, which ensures that it never goes out of style. Chikan is a traditional embroidery style. It is a form of hand embroidery with pattern, of predominantly different designs, stitched using untwisted white cotton or silk (and now rayon) threads on the surface of the fabric. It is said to have been originally introduced by Nur Jahan, the beautiful wife of the Mughal emperor, Jahangir. It has since evolved and attained its glory and perfection in Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh. Chikan Sarees are perfect for any kind of regular occasion. Chikan sarees are simple but give a classy look to anyone who wears it.  Fabric in Chikan Saree Cotton Chiffon Georgette Crepe Silk Rayon Colour Generally, the sarees are light earth colours and pastel shades. Traditionally, the threads used are in the same colour as the fabric. The self color embroidery looks rich on every age group and color. Nowadays, you also have chikan sarees with contrast colours in the body and the embroidery. Design Patterns and effects created depend on types of stitches used and the thickness of the threads used in embroidery. The variety of stitches used are back-stitch, chain stitch and hemstitch. The major type of Chikan work done today are Taipchi, Bakhia, Phanda, Murri, Jali, Hatkati, Pechni, Ghas Patti, Chaana Pati etc. The chikan embroidered sarees with their incredible embroidered patterns are collector's items. Kota Sarees Kota in Rajasthan, India is the home of the famous Kota Doria sarees made in small villages around the Kota city. These sarees are ideal for Indian summers.  Fabric in Kota Sarees Kota sarees are woven in cotton and silk fabric. Handloomed Kota Doria sarees in pure cotton very rare nowadays but Kota sarees in polyester fabric is gaining more and more ground. There are also many varieties of machine loomed Kota fabric, which is also soft cloth with an airy feel that picks up the slightest breeze. Design Kota sari have a special style which uses a combination of cotton and silk threads to create an almost graph like pattern called khats (squares formed between the different thicknesses of fibers) where cotton lends firmness and silk gives airy soft feel. This is called "Kota Doria" weave or the the chequered weave. The chequered weave of a Kota sari is its unique characteristic. Besides the chequered pattern, there are other weaves in complicated designs in a combination of silk and cotton. Some of the weaves also have a narrow border edged with Zari. In the case of sarees with designs, the threads are dyed prior to weaving. The sarees have designs that vary from the traditional jal, checks, jacquard and jamawar pallus to a Chantilly lace-effect and intricate borders of gold and silver thread work. Tanchois Sarees Tanchoi sarees are another famous type of sarees of North India. Like the banarasi sarees, these sarees are also produced by Varanasi weavers. These sarees are not heavy like Banarasi sarees but can be worn for all types of occasion.  Fabric in Tanchois Saree Employing a technique similar to that of brocade, weavers of Benaras make sarees using colorful extra weft silk yarn for their unique patterns. This variety is known as Tanchoi. Tanchoi weaving is based on the weaving technique brought from China by three brothers, called Choi (tan-three, Choi-brothers). The tanchoi weavers wove silk saris and yardage, which was mostly used by the Parsi community initially. Today, tanchoi fabric has remarkable fame in India and the world over. Design Tanchoi saree resembles a fine miniature. In tanchoi sarees, the designs are alway floral with interspersing of birds. Figures of flying birds, paired cocks amidst floral sprays are worked on them. The usual ground is bright blue, purple, green or red with areas patterned in tabby weave. Sometimes the pallu is done more solidly with peacocks, baskets or bunches of flowers or hunting scenes. Tanchoi silk sarees are also in dazzling floral, geometrical and paisley designs. The weavers also use tone-on-tone colors as well as multiple color combinations in jacquard weaving. Tanchoi from Gujarat creates an extra weft layer to produce the effect of embossing on silk. There are also combination of brocaded gold butis and borders in a background of self patterned tanchoi. Some tanchoi sarees have a rich gold border and two gold bands on the pallav. The more exclusive ones have gold checks with lotus roundels all over which are known as butis. Tissue Sarees Tissue sarees of North India, usually woven with the finest silk thread, are quite popular and never out of style. These sarees are very comfortable to wear and are of light weight.  Fabric in Tissue Saree Surprisingly affordable and easily maintained, Tissue is woven of 100% polyester, and is moderately wrinkle resistant, and is machine washable or dry cleanable, depending on color and trim combinations. Tissue offers the ultimate in draping qualities and sumptuous texture. This top quality silky faille weave brings an elegant gracefulness to a saree. There are silk tissue as well as cotton tissue sarees. Cotton tissue sarees are ideal for summer. Tissue silk is a very fine quality silk fabric. It is a very shiny and gorgeous fabric. Tissue silk saree can be both simple and gorgeous depending on the occasion in which it is worn. Colour and Design These sarees come in various colours. There are some sarees with vibrant color combination in the body and the pallu. Some designs that are commonly found in Tissue sarees are: Tissue silk sarees with beautiful brocade work done at the time of weaving the saree. Plain tissue silk saree with designs at border and pallu. The anchal and border with floral motifs blends the classic and contemporary weaving in jamdani style. There are tie and dye tissue silk saree with silver or gold or multicoloured thread work. Geometrical and floral patterns in brocade work with jamdani style weaving on all over the body. The pallu and border of the saree enhance your beauty. The heavy tissue silk saree is adorned with kundan, sequins, resham zardosi & zari hand embroidery, giving it a rich and ornate look. Sarees of East India • Baluchari Sarees • Bomkai Sarees • Jamdani Sarees • Muga Sarees • Pat Sarees • Sambalpuri Sarees Baluchari Sarees The most well-known Bengal Silk sari, which carry its legendary name, is the Baluchari sari - a product of exquisite design and fabulous weaving technique. Produced in the town of Baluchar in Murshidabad district of West Bengal, Baluchari sarees are nation and world wide popular because of their artistic and unique design. 'Baluchari' is one of the most popular weaving techniques of Bengal.  Fabric in Baluchari Sari Silk weaving of Baluchar continues to be an important landmark of Bengal's handloom tradition. Baluchari sarees are woven in Bengal silks which are much acclaimed in the world over, since ancient times. Like silk, cotton baluchari sarees are also woven in a fascinating and exquisite range. The cloth is very fine and transparent with a soft drape. Design and Colours The sari has large flowing kalka motifs in the centre surrounded by narrow ornamental borders. These are framed by a series of figural motifs worked in rows around the kalkas. These motifs are woven diagonally and are worked in four alternating colours, white, blue, yellow, red and green on a shaded background. The motifs are entirely in silver zari. The various designs depicting narrative folktales in the pallu of the sarees are as: A woman riding a horse holding a rose in one hand with her plait flying behind her. Pleasure boat, with two lovebirds on top. Traditional muslim court scenes. Women smoking hookah. Puranic tales or legends of Ramayana and Mahabharata are also depicted on the classic baluchari sarees etc. The most distinctive feature of Baluchari sarees is their elaborate borders and pallu. Bomkai Sarees Another variety of saree avaible in Orissa is the Bomkai saree. Produced in a small town called Bomkai in Orissa, these sarees also have touches of ikat work, like the Sambalpuri sarees.  Fabric in Bomkai Saree Both cotton and silk fabric are used in making Bomkai sarees. For regular wear, cotton bomkai is favoured. A Bomkai Cotton Saree is also an excellent choice for any religious function. Bomkai Silk Sarees are generally worn in formal and semi formal occasions. Design and Colours There are Bomkai sarees with elegant designs, enchanting colors for the exclusive women. Some Bomkai saree have small fishes woven onto the border. Fish symbolizes prosperity and good health. Bomkai sarees feature threadwork ornament borders and pallu. East Indian ladies love to wear Bomkai sarees for their traditional tribal look, as well as their understated and elegant color pallette. A combination of ikat and Bomkai is very unique Jamdani Sarees Jamdani sarees are much sought after by fashion-conscious working women for their elegance, comfort and light weight. Bengal is a large hub of jamdani sarees suppliers and different kind of jamdani sarees.  Fabric in Jamdani Saree Jamdani is an ancient finely woven cotton fabric called muslin with geometric or floral designs. Jamdani sarees are in cotton, pure silk and tussar silk. Colour While the original Bangladeshi sari is almost invariably on a beige background, the Indian weavers are a little more adventurous in their choice of color schemes. A very classy look pervades in the traditional colour. Various types of Jamdani Sarees : Daccai Jamdani Daccai Jamdani sarees are distint from other varieties by its very fine texture resembling muslin and the elaborate and ornate workmanship. These sarees have multicolored linear or floral motifs all over the body and border and have an exquisitely designed elaborate pallu. The mango motif signifying fertility, growth, and marital bliss is a very popular design in Jamdani sarees. Tangail Jamdani These sarees have Jamdani motifs on Tangail fabric and hence known as Tangail Jamdani. The traditional tangail borders had a "paddo" or lotus pattern, "pradeep' or lamp pattern, apart from the popular "aansh paar' which was common to Shantipur. From the use of a single colour on the border, they began to use 2 to three colours to give it 'meenakari' effect. Shantipur Jamdani This variety of sarees have a powder fine texture. Dhaniakhali Jamdani Having a tighter weave than the "tangail" or "shantipur", Dhaniakhali Jamdani is more hardy. Its bold body colours and contrasting borders and absurdly low prices make them very affordable. Muga Sarees Muga sarees are the famous silk sarees produced only in Assam. Though the traditional dress of Assamese ladies is Mekhala Chaddar-a saree in two piece, they also wear sarees nowadays for any kind of formal occasions. Muga sarees are not only elegant and beautiful but they also have ample strength and durability.  Muga Silk Muga sarees are woven in muga silk, which is available only in Assam throughout the world. The pride of India, muga silk is known for its natural shimmering golden colour. The most expensive of silks, muga is an integral part of the tradition and culture of Assam. This fabric is one of the world treasures of fine silk fabrics. Colour The body of the Muga silk saree have just one colour- a natural shimmery golden beige colour. The golden colour of this rare and exotic silk saree needs no dye to enhance its exquisite beauty. It has the natural quality of appearing almost like spun-gold. The motifs and designs woven on the body have the traditional colours like red, green and black which provide a dramatic effect against the golden colour of the Muga fabric. The weavers have extended them to include colours like yellow, green, blue, beige, silver, coppery pink, brown etc. Design Various motifs, butis are knitted or woven on the saree and its border. Each ethnic group of the State has its own distinctive design and style. The motifs used in these sarees are mostly traditional symbols of animals human figures creepers flowers birds channels cross borders the galaxy and ornamental designs. Wedding makhala chaddars are adorned with gold and silver thread work. These hand woven heavy gold silk sarees with motifs stand out in a three-dimensional effect which give an exclusive and attractive look. Pat Sarees Pat Sarees are another type of sarees produced only in Assam like Muga Sarees. Though, the traditional dress of Assam, the Mekhala Chaddar is made of Pat silk, nowadays, sarees are also woven for customers all over the world. The pat silk saree of Assam is famous for its regal appeal. The shining cream and white colour of this saree imparts an elevated feeling. This Paat saree or mekhala chaddar, the traditional dress of Assamese ladies are considered most suitable for all special occasions. The minimum requirement of Assamese bridal wear still remains these silken dresses.  Pat Silk These sarees are woven in silk fabric called Pat silk. Paat silk is a variant of the Muga silk. This fabric is one of the world treasures of fine silk fabrics. It is raised, reeled or spun and woven on a village scale in only this one area of India. Assam is renowned all over the world for this indigenous silk. The silkworms used for producing Pat silk are raised on the leaves of mulberry plants. Due to this reason the silk is also nicknamed Mulberry silk. Pat silk is considered one of the best in the world and is in great demand among the fashion-conscious, and the people opting for traditional attire. Colour Since mulberry silk unlike muga silk can be bleached and dyed, we get Pat sarees in different vibrant colours. But the traditional colour is white. The white color of this material indicates the purity. Design Various motifs, butis are knitted or woven on the sari and its border. Each ethnic group of the State has its own distinctive design and style. The motifs used in these sarees are mostly traditional symbols of animals human figures creepers flowers birds channels cross borders the galaxy and ornamental designs. Wedding mekhala chaddars are very gorgeous with gold or silver embroidery all over the body done with muga silk or gold and silver wire called guna. These hand woven heavy gold silk sarees with motifs stand out in a three-dimensional effect which give an exclusive and attractive look. These pat sarees give a sophisticated look to every lady because of its unique design and softness. Sambalpuri Sarees Orissan Sambalpuri sarees are some of the most beautiful sarees in India. These Sambalpuri sarees are an unparalleled one. The sarees come in a variety of designs and colours to suit every taste and pocket. In the 1980s, the Sambalpuri sari became an international brand, thanks to substantial non-governmental support and the setting up of weavers' cooperatives. Late Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi became a sort of 'brand ambassador' of the Sambalpuri saree -- it was her favourite attire. Newsreaders on India's national television channel, Doordarshan, turned this saree into an unofficial uniform.  Fabric in Sambalpuri Saree Sambalpuri textile is essentially handloom. It is fabricated using tie and dye method. The craftsman conceptualizes the design, draws it and according to the design, he colors the yarn, all by hand. It represents the life and gives a message "Your body may wear but they soul lives for ever". The fabrics once colored cannot be bleached. The fabric may get thin and gradually damage but the colour still does not fade. The fabric is both silk and cotton. Design Sambalpuri sarees are famous for their unique designs and for their beautiful, effulgent colors. Sambalpuri cotton sarees have a smooth finish and have a distinctly original border and pallu. Fish, conch shell and flower motifs are woven into the fabric. Sometimes floral and animal motifs are also used to decorate the borders and pallu. Silk Sambalpuri sarees from Orissa are also in single and double ikat. In contrast to the ikats of Gujarat, these sarees are sober in color and decorated with curved forms. These sarees have an appealing form, workmanship, design and colour combination. Sarees of West India • Chanderi Sarees • Embroidered Tinsel Sarees • Gujarati Brocade Sarees • Maheshwari Sarees • Paithani Sarees • Patola Sarees • Tussar Sarees Chanderi Sarees Chanderi sarees are the famous sarees produced in a small town called Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh. Chanderi sarees are very light and ideal for Indian summers. Its beauty lies in its simplicity, airy feel, narrow borders and decently designed anchals with buttis. The Chanderi sarees give a sophisticated look to whoever who wears it.  Types of Chanderi Sari Narrow border: These are the plain sarees having a very narrow border of complementary-warp zari and an endpiece containing a few narrow zari bands, or one single, wider band. Broader border: These are the sarees with broader borders woven in supplementary warp zari with coloured supplementary-warp silk embellishments, woven into small repeat floral or geometrical designs. The endpiece consisted of the border elements repeated twice as two parallel bands, often with narrow woven lines and many buti woven between them. Wide border: The third type called do-chashmee (two streams) is no longer made but had wide borders with brightly coloured supplementary- warp silk in a satin weave upon which were supplementary bands of white geometric patterns. In some sarees the borders were reversible. Fabric in Chanderi Sarees The Chanderi sari is woven in cotton as well as silk. Chanderi silk from India is the result of traditional methods of hand-weaving that have been developed over the centuries, and passed down through generations. Chanderi silk is considered the fabric of choice for sarees produced for royalty, due to its light-weight quality and intricate designs. Colours and Design These sarees are a rare fusion of soft & contrasting colors. The plain cotton ones are with borders and have stripes and floral patterns. There are also ones which have butis on the body of the saree as well. Silk sarees are woven with zari borders and have zari and thread work all through the length of sari, giving it an elegant and dazzling look. Chanderi sari is known for soft colors and the harmonious balance between the border and the body of the saree. These sarees are also known for their contrasting colors and the depiction of animal and human figures on them and patterns taken from the Chanderi temples. Embroidered Tinsel Sarees These are another variety of sarees available in West India. The Embroidered tinsel sarees are made famous by ethnic groups such as rabaris and sodha Rajputs. Embroidered tinsel sarees are very popular because of the interesting texture, the metalic thread and the three dimensional effect that could be created on it.  Design These embroidered tinsel sarees are zardozi embroidered, which is the gold gilt thread embroidery technique. Intricate designs in gold and silver, studded with pearls and precious stones enhanced the beauty of rich and glowing silk, and brocade saree. Other cheaper variations in metallic embroidery are the Balla tinsel and khari works. The saree with Balla tinsel and khari works have also become quite popular. There are also bridal sarees from Rajasthan with elaborate tinsel embroidered designs in vibrant shades. Designs can be ethnic or modern. Tinsel embroidery sarees impart richness of color as well as design. Gujarati Brocade Sarees Gujarati brocade sarees are interwoven with rich, raised design. These saree are very expensive and have also become very rare. These brocade sarees give an attractive look to anyone who wears it.  There are two main distinguishing characteristics of the Gujarati Brocade Sari: Butis (circular designs) woven into the field in the warp direction instead of the weft, resulting in their lying horizontally instead of vertically on the sari when draped. Floral designs woven in coloured silk, against a golden (woven zari) ground fabric. Although such 'inlay' work is a common feature in many western Deccan silks, the Gujarati work usually has leaves, flowers and stems outlined by a fine dark line. Fabric and design in Gujarati Brocade Sarees Brocade is a kind of silk fabric which is very thick and heavy and raised designs are woven in it. The Asavali saris are the famous Gujarati brocade sarees that had rich brocaded patterns woven in twill weave, a speciality of the area. Intricately woven silken patterns were embedded into the gold surface in variety of colours and were known as meenakari, imitating the enamel work prepared on jewellery. Maheshwari Sarees An important political and cultural centre situated in Madhya Pradesh, Maheshwar is famous for a particular type of saree called Maheshwari saree, which is a speciality of this city. These sarees are famous throughout India for their unique style of harmonious balance between the border and the body of the saree. The grace and elegance of these sarees is hard to match.  Fabric in Maheshwari Sarees The Maheshwari saree is woven mostly in cotton and silk. The saree woven from pure silk, is famous for its strength, elasticity and a unique luster of the fabric. Nowadays these sarees are made in natural and artificial silk as well. Colours and Design The typical Maheshwari saree is either chequered, plain or has stripes, combined with complementary colours. These sarees have a trademark border and pallu, setting them apart from the Paithani, Patola, Kancheepuram and the rest. Originally, the pallu is particularly distinctive with 5 strips, 3 coloured and two white alternating, running along its width. The reversible border of the saree known as bugdi which can be worn either side, is a speciality. It has a variety of leaves and flowers on the border, in karnphool pattern, which is quite popular. But now a lot of experimentation with respect to the fabric and motifs has been done in Maheshwari sarees, no doubt to increase its appeal in a market of changing and varied tastes. The use of zari and kinari is also unique to the Maheshwari saree. The golden thread is used to weave exotic motifs and designs on the body, border and pallu of the saree. Paithani Sarees Paithani sarees are the famous silk sarees of Maharashtra. It is a hand-woven sari of gorgeous colours, intricate design and painstaking labour and treasured as a valuable possession in every Maharashtrian family. No Maharashtrian wedding trousseau is complete without the Paithani sari.  Fabric in Paithani Sarees The Paithani sarees, are made of silk in rich, vivid colours with gold embroidery. In the modern Paithani sarees, silver threads coated with gold are used instead of pure gold threads. Design Distinctive motifs such as stars, peacocks, mangoes, flowers, coins, fans, petals, lotus, coconut etc. are woven into the sari. Many of these designs are found on the border and pallu in different sizes and patterns. In the pallu, the base is in gold and the pattern is done in silk, giving the whole sari an embossed look. Paithani are generally decorated with the gold dot or coin motif. The speciality of the paithani is its border and pallav. Colours These sarees have a special dhoop-chaav (light and shade) effect which is achieved by bringing two different coloured silk threads together in the process of a simple tabby weave. The shades vary from vivid magenta, peacock greens and purples. The dominant traditional colours of vegetable dyes included blue, red and green, black and white, black and red, pink, purplish red and yellow. Patola Sarees The patola saree is one of the finest hand-woven sarees produced today. Patola silk sarees are the pride of Gujarat. These sarees are created by using the resist dying technique. There are two types of Patola sarees: Rajkot Patola: This is only vertically resist dyed (single ikat). Patan Patola: This is horizontally-resist dyed (double ikat). Patola sarees are known for their flaming bright colors and geometric designs interwoven with folk motifs. Every patola saree is one of its kind as it is created entirely with the imagination and skill of the weaver.  Fabric in Patola Saree Patola saree is woven from silk called the patola silk. The patola silks are still made by a handful of master weavers from Patan and Surat known for their zari work. The Process A Patola Saree takes 4 to 6 months to make, depending on how complicated the design is. The Patan patola is done in the Double ikat style, which is perhaps the most complicated textile design in the whole world. Each fabric consists of a series of warp threads and a single weft thread, which binds the warp threads together. Each one of the warp threads is tied and dyed according to the pattern of the saree, such that the knotted portions of the thread do not catch the colours. The result is that both sides of the saree look exactly alike as if it is printed on both sides with the same design, and can be worn either way. Design and Colour The weaving is done on simple traditional handlooms, and the dyes used are made from vegetable extracts and other natural colours. Flowers, animals, birds and human figures form the the basic design. Nowadays, there are new geometrical designs using the vegetable dye as well as chemical dyes. Patola silk sarees with bright colours are also enriched with zardosi, kundan, sequins. Tussar Sarees The state of Madhya Pradesh is also famous for Tussar silk sarees. The look of the Tussar Sari, plain or coloured, is so rich that it is a favourite choice for formal occasions.  Design and Fabric Tussar silk sarees are considered auspicious for marriages, religious ceremonies and other important functions. Tussar silk is a special variety of silk, as the cocoons are raised on Arjun and Sal trees. They come in a range of colors. The motifs and the patterns continuously refer to nature and daily life and they are carefully chosen to enhance the beauty of gorgeous Tussar silk sari. With time, the range of colour and motifs in the sarees have increased dramatically. The traditional block-printed tussar sarees are very unique and very ethnic. The Tussar sarees radiate a natural brilliance due to the fibre used. In some Tussar silk sarees, brocade work is done with Zari to give them an ornate look. In some, the pallus and borders of the sari is woven with thread, coloured in the Ikat style to give a designer touch. Sarees of South India • Chettinad Sarees • Gadwal Sarees • Kanjeevaram Sarees • Konrad Sarees • Mysore Silk Sarees • Pochampally Sarees Chettinad Sarees Chettinad is a small town in southern Tamil Nadu state and it is well known for its sarees. Chettinad sarees are a prized possession of every south Indian lady. These sarees have a simple and ethnic look which can be worn for all occasions.  Weaving cotton sarees has long been an occupation here. Sari weavers in Chettinad design the traditional chettinad cotton and silk sarees in contemporary colour. Today a few entrepreneurs have undertaken to preserve traditional designs, and have given new life to it by mixing silk with cotton, giving the Chettinad sari designer status. Work is being done to revive conventional designs. Gadwal Sarees Gadwal sarees are the famous sarees of Andhra Pradesh made in a style influenced by the Banarasi weaves. The Gadwal sarees with lavish design in pallu make them beautiful and rich looking sarees befitting for any festive celebration.  Fabric in Gadwal Saree Gadwal saree is made in cotton. While the ground of the saree is cotton, there is a loosely attached silk border. Colour Traditional colours for these sarees are earth shades of browns, greys and off-whites. However, brighter shades have been introduced for the North Indian buyer. The Process The most distinctive aspect of the Gadwal saree (and the one most difficult to do) is where the silk pallu is joined to the cotton body - this is called 'doing the kechchu' - back-breaking work that involves long hours of work and is invariably done by women. Design Copper or gold-dipped zari is generally used in these sarees. The motifs of the murrugan (peacock) and the rudraksh are popular. There can be mango design buttis all over body enriched by a dark contrast colour pallu having intricate geometric pattern zari design and rich zari work border too. There can also be self stripes design in body with zari buttis all over enriched by a printed pattern work. Floral designer zari buttis and zigzag pattern zari work all over body are also popular. The silk cotton mix look in the Gadwal saree give the saree its unique charm and elegance. Kanjeevaram Sarees Kanjeevaram silk sarees are perhaps the most well known of Indian silk sarees. They are the famous sarees of Tamil Nadu. They are world famous for their royal look and rich feel. The Kanjeevaram sari gets its name from the town it originated in - Kanchipuram, a little temple town in Tamil Nadu. The Kanjeevaram sari is not only the choice for weddings in South India and elsewhere but also worn at all other auspicious and religious occasions. The Kanjeevaram sari is a tradition often passed on from mother to daughter over several generations as an heirloom in much the same way they might pass on jewellery or diamonds. A Kanjeevaram sari is made to last a lifetime.  Fabric in Kanjivaram Sari The Kanjeevaram sari is made of a heavy silk called Kanjivaram silk, so durable that it can be washed in water at home. It is one of the most finest and most popular forms of silk in Tamilnadu. Kanjee silk is thicker than almost all other silks, and is therefore more expensive. The heavier the silk, the better the quality. While there are light weight Kanjee sarees made from Korean and Chinese silk, only mulberry silk produced in Karnataka and few parts of Tamil Nadu, is right silk for the classic Kanjeevaram sari. The Process The creation of a Kanjeevaram sari is no easy task. The process begins with the the silk thread being twisted, then dyed and dried in the sun after which it is ready for the weaver's loom. The weaver creates the border, body and pallu separately and then interlocks them together in an impossible to detach joint. A weaver takes about 10-12 days to weave a simple Kanjeevaram sari while decorative ones could take up to 20 days. Kanjeevarams are favoured for their durability. Design Kanjeevaram silk sarees are always of bold and bright colour contrasts, favoured by almost every Indian woman. Some common designs woven on the saree are as follows: Peacock and parrot are the most common motifs. Major attractions are the also beautiful tribal designs. Now focus is also on contemporary patterns. These are sarees of vivid colour contrasts with traditional patterns derived from the Pallava temples, palaces and paintings. You will also find scenes from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata and Bhagwad Gita being incorporated into these works of art. A decorative saree contains Zari interwoven with the silk; the 'zari' work in the border and the Pallu are generally woven in gold-dipped silver threads. The more the Zari the more expensive you can expect the sari to be. The sarees can also be a plain silk saree. There can also be little gold motifs scattered all over its body. There are also sarees with gold squares or stripes. Every sari is an artistic creation, a unique masterpiece and no two sarees are alike. Konrad Sarees The konrad sarees are another famous type of sarees of Tamil Nadu. These sarees are simple, yet classy and ethnic and can be worn in any occasion. Another name of this saree is Temple saree. Originally these sarees were woven for temple deities and hence the name Temple Saree.  Design and Colour One of the distinguishing look of this saree is that it always has wide border. Wedding related motifs such as elephants and peacocks, symbolising water, fertility and fecundity are very popular. These sarees have generally very light coloured earth shades of browns, greys and off-whites. However, nowadays brighter shades have been introduced for the North Indian buyers. These sarees nowadays also have exotic motifs done in zari and pleasant colors, both inspired by nature. Worn by both young and old, this is one of the most favoured saree to be worn by South Indian ladies in any semi-formal, formal or regular occasion. Mysore Silk Sarees Every Indian woman desires to wear a Mysore silk saree. Mysore silk sarees are very popular sarees of South India. Rich Mysore silk sarees can be selected in a variety of color combinations and prints. The traditional Mysore silk sarees may soon be the next product which would put Karnataka on the world map. It will soon become as good as a patented product.  Mysore Silk Fabric Mysore silk is one of the most popular and finest and purest forms of silk. Mysore silk is a famous variety of silk made in Mysore and Bangalore in Karnataka. Known for its extraordinary quality and permanence of luster, it is an integral part of the Karnataka's culture. In this region, people always wear some kind of silk while participating in a ritual. Mysore silk draws its fame from the purity of the silk, its lustre, softness and richness of its natural colour which gave it precedence over all other silks. The Process The weight and the content of gold or silver thread used mainly in the intricate border and the pallau or the headpiece determine the price of the sarees. A saree usually weighs between 400 and 600 grams (15-21 ounces). The silk is dyed using natural pigments and woven into intricate but, subtle patterns featuring motfis of birds or fruits. The painstaking production process by the weavers ensures that every aspect of the saree is perfect. Design and Colours Mysore silk saree with its extraordinary sheen of the fabric, purity of the zari, the distinctive drape, a wonderful non-crush quality, and a butter-soft feel gives a elegant look to anyone who wears it. These classy sarees are not only washable, but also durable. The zari too rarely fades because the yarn used has the maximum gold and silver compared to any silk saree in the country. The intricate zari work on the borders and pallu set them apart. Mysore silk saree is undergoing a makeover with new kasuti embroidery, bandhini designs, rich woven pallus, and with a palette of exciting vibrant colors lilac, ecru, coffee-brown and elephant-grey, and contemporary designs, all inspired by traditional Indian architecture and ancient Indian jewellery. This saree exhibiting a range of rich colors, with golden threads interwoven in it for an enhanced effect, has almost acquired a legendary status due to its sheer beauty and demand. Pochampally Sarees Pochampally sarees are the famous sarees woven in Pochampally, a small town in Andhra Pradesh. Pochampally is the well known brand in south india because of its quality. These sarees are world famous because of its unique design and colour combination.  Fabric The saree is woven in hand woven cotton and silk fabric. Pochampally ikats can be differentiated from their cousins in Orissa by their feel. Pochampally cloth is smoother than the flannelly Orissa cloth and not quite as heavy. The Process There are about 5000 handloom weavers in Pochampally who create sarees in traditional ikat work. This saree is known for its unique design. The ikat weaves involve the yarn being dyed first, with each strand dyed on the basis of the final pattern that has been decided. This means that everything has to be very precise and requires the skills of true artists. This method is very similar to the tie-and-dye method, the real difference being that here the yarn is dyed before weaving a rather complex procedure. The famous Pochampally ikat tie-and-dye saree has won Intellectual Property Rights protection. It is the first traditional Indian craft to receive this status of geographical branding. The design won protection in the Geographical Indications category. This will protect the pochampally handloom saree from unfair competition and counterfeit. Design and Colour One of the reasons why pochampally sarees find a better market in India and abroad is, the weavers use modern synthetic colors instead of the expensive vegetable dyes for dying, thereby not only bringing down the cost of production, but also getting a chance to be more creative by trying out complex designs. Since the 1960s pochampally ikat-weavers were influenced by the patola designs of Gujarat. Modern ikats of Andhra Pradesh, which are simple and use at the most three colors and purely geometrical designs, are of good quality and sell competitively.  is injurious to health.Thank you. |
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